Setting off with our newfound companions, we embarked on the journey to the temple of Kedarnath. Our friends pitched their tent in Gaurikund in the dark and graciously invited us to stay with them, without which we would have been without shelter. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set out together to conquer the ascent to the temple.
During our ascent, we experienced all facets of weather – from scorching sun to pouring rain and icy snow. We pilgrimaged in Hobbit style – with many breaks, plenty of Beedis (hand-rolled Indian cigarettes), even more chai, and Paratha (a North Indian specialty, a kind of potato pancake). Along the way, we encountered numerous Babas, holy men, who blessed us abundantly with good wishes and joints (common among Babas).
Upon finally reaching the top in the dark around nine in the evening and utterly exhausted, it seemed we wouldn’t make it into the temple before closing time. So, we employed a very Indian trick and improvised a special “Jugaad” (=trick). We climbed over the fence near the temple, bypassing the long line of waiting pilgrims.
Access to the sanctuary is only granted to those with pure hearts and minds. We were so pure that the priest cleared a space for us in front of the shrine and allowed us extra time to pray. When we left the temple, we were filled with bliss – but our walking sticks were gone.
The Babas had stolen our sticks to make a fire. We spent the night in a tent behind the temple, next to the Babas’ tents and the statue of the holy Adi Shankaracharya from Kerala. The next morning, we woke up on sacred ground and had to share the toilet facilities with the Babas.
The descent was as challenging as the ascent, especially as darkness fell and the steep path became slippery. Almost at the end of our strength, we finally reached the valley safely. That same night, we rode back to Rishikesh on our faithful Enfield, which had reliably accompanied us. It was an unforgettable journey full of adventure and spiritual experiences.


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